Actually I am finding microwaved water is working out. The coffee actually tastes less bitter and I can cut down on sweetener. .
My espresso machine heats water to 93C for coffee.This would make sense as I’m pretty certain that you *shouldn’t* use boiling water for coffee (unlike tea) - I can’t remember the perfect temp you’re meant to use (not a coffee drinker) but it’s something like 95°? The figure might be wrong. But anyway, a barista told me that water at 100° results in the coffee being more bitter.
Yes I am considering it since the microwave I have got has no grilling capability, and my cooker grill is 2kw so an air fryer would be cheaper to run. But my go to snack is cheese on toast, and I suspect this is not something an airfryer would resolve. I am concentrating in transitioning my current diet regime to the microwave since I can do that with minimum investment required as I already have the main characters in play. I have just ordered a meat probe and my steamer should arrive on Wednesday. My new dishwaher gets installed on Tuesday and that will save me money as it is Class C rating, and replaces my old Class G machine that has started sulking and needs a dishwasher whisperer to get it going. I have spent sufficient this month.
I’ve had success making sure there is plenty of liquid in the pot and picking a nice fatty bit. Might be that 8 hours isn’t enough. I have an instant pot which can both pressure cook and slow cook and on either mode I find that my cooking times need to be significantly longer than quoted in most recipes. Trial and error got me there - not so helpful when you’re trying to save costs!I am researching slow cooking brisket joints.
Main problem is, however much one saves on fuel costs by economising, the standing charges are astronomical.So far this year I have used some 20% less each month than last year.
I think it depends which one you go for. I have this one (or a variation of it), currently £56.99 and free postage: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Instant-Pot-Electric-Pressure-Stainless/dp/B00OP26T4K?th=1The Instant Pot is only economical if you already have one. Currently the price is £249 + P&P which would require quite some time to recoup the acquisition cost.
Yes, the one I saw and drooled over was a combi pot, with built in flame thrower (airfryer). Ninja do a similar item at much the same price.I think it depends which one you go for. I have this one (or a variation of it), currently £56.99 and free postage: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Instant-Pot-Electric-Pressure-Stainless/dp/B00OP26T4K?th=1
I bought it when my previous slow cooker needed replacing.
The Instant Pot is only economical if you already have one. Currently the price is £249 + P&P which would require quite some time to recoup the acquisition cost. However, the hacks for pressure cookers and air fryers are good. If my cooker needs to be retired, then that is when I should look at Instant Pot again. I see Aldi has an air fryer at £30 which is feasible. I am not sold on slow cookers, but I have a Ninja soup & smoothie maker lying dormant which might get pressed back into service.
Yes, the one I saw and drooled over was a combi pot, with built in flame thrower (airfryer). Ninja do a similar item at much the same price.
One thing I disccovered in my research is that my fan oven has a rating of 0.8 KWh but has a 2.5KW heater element. So when looking at ovens, it is really the efficiency of the insulation that is important The oven uses the full whack to warm up to temp, but then uses burst energy to maintain the temp. Thus the rating is really reflecting what it uses during a lengthy cook session, and must assume that the oven door is not opened at any time. I believe older slow cookers were not well insulated, and so have poor rating values. The Air Fryers are really small souped up fan ovens with good insulation. They warm up quicker.
Of course, 1 p per hour works out at £87.6 a year if not switched off. This is why standby appliances and unused chargers are costing us. I note that the chart has the electic oven at 1 KW which is presumably taken from the Energy Rating not the element wattage. So is realistic. The facebook chart seems to be incorrect on the figure for the microwave.Saw this on Facebook
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You raise a valid point here, which I admit I fell into. The website has an energy rating of 0.8 for an 800 watt oven, but that too is incorrect since microwave cookers are measured in terms of output power, not input power. My microwave baseplate shows it consumes up to 1.2 kw.Threads like this sadden me deeply. Before I descend in to a rant about everything that's wrong with the current situation which makes me so sad, I'll just offer up a quick caveat about calculations.
An 800 watt microwave consumes more than 800 watts of electricity. A lot more in some cases. Mine, as an example, outputs 750-800 watts for an electrical input of 1200-1270 watts according to the manufacturer. This is confirmed by smart meter readings which escalate by well over 1200 watts when the microwave is on. If you are doing the maths with the aim of saving money, don't use the wattage printed on the front of the device as this is the cooking output, not the electrical input. Read the specifications in the manual or use a watt meter for a more accurate number to crunch.
I would wager that putting the minimum water in a kettle and flicking the switch off just before it boils (which I have always done rather than letting it rumble away for 10+ seconds) is not going to be hideously more expensive (if at all) than 2 minutes of 1.2kW microwaving. Your model of microwave may be more efficient than mine, but electric kettles are fairly efficient devices in themselves.
Totally agree on avoiding electric hobs, grills and ovens where possible. Very glad I have a gas hob.
(Feel free to call me names if you already knew this information and are already accounting for it)
Sometimes I can't help myself. I just tested my kettle at minimum fill (enough for a regular cup of tea or coffee) and it came out at just under 0.04 kWh consumed. Microwave at 2 minutes of 1200 watt action is... 0.04kWh.
Dammit, this was supposed to be a one line post. Sorry.
The rating by output power allows comparisons between different models and also assists recipes and prepared food suppliers to provide easy to follow cooking instructions. It is only when trying to work out comparative cost or cost of ownership where it is misleading .It's not an unreasonable assumption that 800 watts on the box means just that, and many online sellers do not list electrical input power versus microwave power. It seems that domestic magnetrons just aren't that efficient when compared to electrical resistive heating in percentage terms, but can be used in different ways that give them an overall cost benefit sometimes. It only occurred to me to look more closely when I happened to notice the smart meter in home device shoot well past the 1kW mark when the microwave was on. I then noticed that many websites make the same assumption about power use when discussing running costs for cooking. Every day is a school day as they say.
I must be lucky with the kettle. A normal mug hits the minimum marker and it takes 44 seconds to almost boil, also at 3kW. Lets not get in to calculating the number of boils required to offset the cost of a new kettle, especially as the microwave is working for you
Hope you all make it through the winter without too much pain or suffering.
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