I’m writing this while sitting in the Crest View Inn in Camden, Maine, gazing out the window at trees and flowers, even though autumn is well under way. We left Greenfield, Massachussetts, yesterday morning at 9 am and arrived in Topsham, Maine, before 1 p.m. We stopped along the way to pick up a road map in a visitor centre, and have a cup of coffee.
We found our overnight B&B but, as it was too early to check in, we went out looking for somewhere to have a light lunch. Topsham is a very small place and we settled on Subway as the best chance for a light meal. Fine dining is my thing, you may have noticed.
The journey up was a spectacle of nature – the trees’ change is more advanced in the north. The colours are beyond my powers of description. Maples turn bright red, but there are others that are a bright yellow, almost lemon. Then there are the browns – everything from dark chocolate to café au lait. The russets should be included here, lightening to gold from place to place. Poison sumac, which will give you a really painful welt if you brush it with your bare skin, has already turned red and is now transforming into dark brown. The countryside changes from day to day.
After lunch in Topsham Subway (chicken teriyaki) we decided to visit the coast which, according to the map wasn’t too far. Unfortunately, there were no towns on the way and the GPS doesn’t work on highway numbers. We wanted to be on Route 24 but somehow got lost and ended up at Popham Beach, which was more interesting as there is a fort on the water’s edge, built during the Civil War to protect the river and the shipbuilding facilities there from any Confederate attack. We walked along the beach, enjoying the emptiness without a tourist in sight – except for us.
The b&b had a collection of menus from nearby restaurants and after having a read through we chose a place called The Taste of Maine. We drove down Highway 1 to Woolwich (another one of those English names) and found a fantastic selection of seafood on offer. Jackie and I both chose the seafood medley with lobster. A young lady at a nearby table ordered the jumbo lobster roll. When it arrived it was 16 inches long with the meat from at least 3 lobsters stuffed inside. The word to describe the young lady would be “petite”, so to say that she polished it off was a bit of a surprise. Our dinner, a grilled haddock fillet, shrimps, and seared scallops drizzled with melted butter, topped with a half-lobster draped over it, was superb. It was cooked just the way I like it, the way Rick Stein does it – excellent ingredients cooked simply. It was so low-carb that I was able to eat half the jacket potato served with sour cream and chives that accompanied it.
The Black Lantern, our b&b, was welcoming and comfortable, decorated in old New England style. We slept like logs and were up in time to make it comfortably to our 8.30 am breakfast, which was eggs benedict with asparagus. I ate only one of the muffin halves the poached eggs were served on so kept my carb intake down to reasonably normal.
This morning we wished our hosts farewell and drove all the way to Camden on Highway 1. It was a prettier drive than the motorway, we were assured by the owner of the Black Lantern. He’d also advised us to drive through Camden to Mount Battie, a state park, where a short drive up the mountain reveals a breathtaking panorama of Maine coastline. This area is not as rocky as it is in the northern part of state, but there are inlets, coves and islands for mile after mile.
From there we drove back to Camden, parked the car in the harbour parking area and had a look at the menu outside the Bayview Lobster House. Once again, great food: lobster roll for me, crab roll for Jackie. Would you believe there was the meat from a whole lobster in my roll and it cost around £7, complete with cole slaw? When the word gets around that Bill is coming to Maine, lobsters are scared, very scared.
We checked into our motel, the Crest View Inn, then returned to the Camden town centre, which is not dissimilar to Carmel in California. We did some window shopping and browsing and drifted around the little park that overlooks a waterfall that runs under the main road and emerges between a couple of shops.
We had more seafood for dinner and returned to the hotel and watched TV before dropping off to sleep.
I’m now resuming after waking to torrential rain and driving through it to Ogunquit, a pretty coastal area. We stopped off along the way to view a life-size moose made out of pure chocolate. It weighs 1,700 lbs, and you’re not even allowed to lick it. While in the chocolate maker’s shop I bought a couple of bars of sugarfree chocolate. I just ate a square and it was so good. First chocolate I’ve had in a couple of months.
When we arrived in Ogunquit the rain had stopped and the sun was trying to break through. Our room overlooks the bay and the Atlantic Ocean – a spectacular sight, and I can lie on my bed and gaze out the window, watching the tide fall.
Dinner tonight was – guess what? – lobster.The restaurant we chose was doing a specia: two lobsters for £18. How can you resist a price like that? Jackie passed on that as she’s not the lobster addict I am and she settled for grilled haddock with shrimps.
Tomorrow we return to Massachussetts and I’m keeping my fingers crossed that the rain doesn’t return for the 4 hour drive.