Dear Desidiabulum,
I started on the same island as you - Java - and lived in Bogor one and a half hours by car west of jakarta and then Banyuwangi extreme east and south of Surabaya. Had a holdiday on Bali and was persuaded to buy a house in Sanur, Denpasar. Have used one of the most dangerous roads in Indonesia, i.e., Sanur to Gillimanuk for the ferry to Java but used a car for this - every journey I saw lorries into ravines and m/cycles up in trees or under lorries. You were so lucky not to have driven into a rain-filled hole during that trip - 50% motorcyclist die that way - the rest through outrageously extreme risk-taking. As for Paliatan and the Palace at Ubud - only tourists do not know what is in store these days (the small and very narrow roads are blocked completely by traffic from morning to night) - the community leaders and Regent just do not know how to deal with the nightmare so I stay away these days.
Thanks for the question - takes our minds off other problems - yes?
Rob